Church of the Nativity of John the Baptist (Suzdal)

The Church of the Nativity of John the Baptist, also called the Nativity Church (Rozhdestvenskaya), is a stone winter church built in 1739 in Suzdal, Vladimir Oblast. It stands in the former Tanners' Quarter (Kozhevennaya Sloboda), in a hollow on the right bank of the Kamenka River, and together with the summer Church of the Epiphany it forms one of the town's parish church ensembles.

History

The Tanners' Quarter was where Suzdal's leatherworkers lived and kept their workshops. In the 17th century two wooden churches stood on the site of the present ensemble; they later burned down and were replaced with stone churches.

The heated Nativity Church, used for winter services, came first, in 1739. A bell tower was added to it in 1740. The summer Church of the Epiphany was built next to it in 1781, on the gentle bank of the Kamenka where the river bends. This produced the pairing of a winter and a summer church that is typical of Suzdal.

The Nativity Church has hardly been altered: over time only some window and door openings were widened. In recent years the church has been restored inside and out with private donations, among them from the local benefactor Alexander Gennadievich Shishkin.

Architecture of the Nativity and Epiphany churches

The Nativity Church is elongated from east to west and in shape recalls the wooden "cage" (kletskiy) churches of old Russia, only built in stone. Pilasters on the walls echo the points where the logs of a wooden frame would meet. The church has a pitched metal roof topped by a small onion dome on a slender carved drum.

On the west side a small porch adjoins the church and carries an octagonal bell tower. Its slim, slightly concave spire, known locally as a "dudka" (pipe), is characteristic of Suzdal. Researchers note that the bell tower resembles the demolished bell tower of the Church of the Entry into Jerusalem.

The neighbouring Church of the Epiphany combines features of late 17th and late 18th century architecture. Its main volume is a cube with paired rustication at the corners, crowned by a two-tier drum with an onion dome. The windows are framed by half-columns and topped with ogee-shaped kokoshnik gables.

The church today

The church is active. Services are held on weekends and church holidays, and the patronal feast, the Nativity of John the Baptist, is celebrated on 7 July.

Getting there

The church is in the centre of Suzdal but a little off the main tourist streets, so it is easy to miss. The simplest way is to start from the Trading Rows on Torgovaya Square and walk down to the Kamenka; the churches can be seen in the hollow by the water.

Most visitors reach Suzdal via Vladimir: by train to Vladimir, then by bus from the bus station next to the railway station. Buses run every 20–30 minutes and the trip is about 37 km. A taxi is another option.